A few general remarks. The countryside we saw was beautiful but surprisingly many of the trees in the Highlands seemed to be dying. It was not clear why this should be. However it may have to do with vehicular pollution. The exhaust fumes from virtually all of the HGV and PSVs were dense, acrid and black. I was taken aback and Mrs Ha found breathing unpleasant at times. I encouraged her to persevere as the alternative seemed undesirable. This combined with driving that made the honkies seem bordering on competent and sane made for most challenging conditions. Especially when the aircon on the AVIS hirecar packed up on the first day. Choke or suffocate. Hmm. Interesting conundrum to wrestle with.
Our hotel, the splendid Cameron Highlands Resort Hotel was a welcome relief and the staff obliging and friendly. The food was of excellent quality if limited in variety. My objections centred on traffic noise, mosquito fuming at midnight (noisy and noxious to inhale) and piped muzac. There was however an ever readiness to help me search nightly for moths.
Birds were scarce in the Camerons but the plant life was wonderful. We did 2 hikes. The first was on the Jim Thompson Mystery Trail. This was free and led by the hotel's resident naturalist. He made a great deal of effort and found us some excellent plants. Undoubtedly many were common but still new to me.
These 2 were quite different in ease of finding. The upper one was deep in the jungle on the ground whilst the other was on an open bank near the hotel. Quite beautiful.
As this is a birds and bugs blog I ought now to throw in a few birds and here are images taken at Fraser's Hill, which sadly I shall come to later.
They are Black-throated sunbird, Streaked spiderhunter, Chestnut-capped laughing thrush and Little cuckoo dove. But you knew that didn't you?
But let me return to the Cameron Highlands. Exploring the trails is fun and happily leech free (unlike Fraser's Hill). The other sources of amusement are somewhat limited. There is the tea plantation to visit and you could, well, visit the tea plantation again and of course there are 2 butterfly farms. These were rather disappointing. No. They were dreadful. Manky butterflies in manky surroundings. Allow me, if you will, to illustrate. 2 butterflies. One taken in captivity, one in the wild. Which is which?
It may be a little known fact that the Rajah Brooke birdwing butterfly prefers kipping on its back but somehow I doubt it. In addition to the flutterbys each 'farm' had a collection of insects and snakes. I was alarmed to see the guide banging the glass of a tank containing a live cobra, simply to get it to strike towards passing visitors. Gruesome.
We could, had we so wished, visited one of the many strawberry farms in the area. Mrs Ha is not a fan of the strawberg however and I like mine with clotted cream and scones. So we took a raincheck on the strawbery farms and indeed everything else in the area. Actually, I do the place a great disservice. Right opposte the hotel was a golf course. It was sparingly patronised as far as I could tell but in good nick through lack of use, probably. So if you are a flogger rather than a hiker, by all means go wield a niblick and swing your mashie. Fore!
Before I venture off to the Hill named after Fraser, allow me to redeem AVIS' reputation by saying that they drove a replacement car all the way to the Cameron Highlands from KLIA. And thus armed with a new tank (known in the trade as a Hyundai Sonata, built for comfort not speed) we pootled off to FH. The petrol situation got a bit dodgy and we stopped to refill before starting the long, tortuous drive up to the clear, clean, dank air of Fraser's Hill. Mrs. Ha is prone to car sickness so this was an unwelcome surprise to her. 90 minutes of torture. But then we arrived at the piece de resistance for the entire trip, Ye Olde Smokehouse. In my humble opinion the smoke should come from the embers of the bible black ash of the building after some tragic "accidental" arson attack. Not exactly a warm welcome. And then the room. Spacious yes. And there it stops. The entire building is tired, coughing up blood as it lurches drunkenly towards an overdue demise. It looks dirty. Maybe it is clean and is in need of some TLC but I fear not. The carpets on the staircase look and feel tacky with a patina of grime. The bedlinen startled us. Sheets so gossamer thin and a bedspread stained with perhaps old strawberry juice. One can only hope. And damp. Fraser's Hill, is, by virtue of its locus, damp. And here it seeps into every nook and cranny. We hoped the food would be better.
Dinner offered some exciting options so we opted for the traditional. Roast leg of lamb. Very Malay. And indeed it led to significant malaise. The soup was passable. Indeed, I passed it later. The lamb however was the stuff of sole. Not Dover but boots. I fear the creature died an agonising death and this was its revenge. And to boot it was barely warm. The veggies were on a par with the meat. Marginally above room temperature at best. Unusually for me, I complained. Not a gentle protestation but a loud, vigorous howl of dissatisfaction. Suddenly people froze. Then they scuttled to and fro. The manageress appeared. Désolé was not the word. I was offered free bread and butter pudding. Fortunately it was a one night offer. They clearly superheated it to ensure it was not tepid. It was like chewing rubber with raisins added. A meal from the bowels of hades.
The following morning we were both clear on one thing. We would not spend another nght in the Ye Olde Shitehouse. And so after a morning birding we drove hot foot to the joys of KL and The Shangri-La. And here I think it is time to introduce one of KL's lesser known gems - Chrysopelea paradisi, the Paradise Tree Snake.I believe it is mildly venemous and thrives on a diet of geckos and small children. OK, I made up the bit about small children but I can always hope.
What a cutie!! I found this in the Lake Gardens. My lucky day. I also found this which is mildly less prone to make Mrs. Ha run a mile.
9 comments:
A cobra (or rat snake - or something else...anyway, a big, jet-black thing) was responsible for stopping my progress on a walk in the remotest north-east New Territories some years ago. As for carpets, how much more pleasant to stay in a hotel that doesn't use these dust traps.
alas the only good place to stay in Frasers Hill are the two bungalows, Bunge and Arundel, that belonged to the company that my mother used to work for in the 70s. They were both white and half-timbered, scrupulously clean, with log fires in the evening, impeccable lawns, rose bushes, their own badminton court, and were staffed by white-jacketed flunkies who served up excellent Chinese food, or delicious feather-light sponge cakes and scones with jam and cream.
NOW she tells me!
I looked quickly and thought extralimital said extramarital. I thought to myself, oh my, the Phiz? Is she not in Mexico after all...?
The G and I stayed in a similarly horrific hotel in Thailand once. The bugs came out in the middle of the night. Covered our floor. It was really awful.
DG, I don't do extramarital. Shame on you for such thoughts.
It's shocking the way some people's minds work.
and they also did wonderful chicken pie with puff pastry (homemade not frozen) which they proudly proclaimed had 32 layers
32 layers, Mango? Wonderful. Are these bungle-ohs still available for booking? Mrs Ha. cooked these most delicious chicken last night -new recipe - with corn on the cob alongside. No wonder my waistline is expanding again. BTW, I am very partial to mango but star fruit is the flavour de jour at home.
Sadly, that was nearly forty years ago. I think the family who were caretaking and doing the cooking are not likely to be still in residence. The bungalows belonged to the company my mother worked for. I don't know if they're open to the public.
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